Christiane Holmquist Landscape Design

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Dry Shade Plant Design with Pizzazz – Not a Headache with these Gems

August 31, 2016 By Christiane Holmquist

Creating an appealing plant composition , especially when aiming for a low water needs design, can be tricky in the shade. Dry shade plant design poses more challenges: Plants grown here have different irrigation needs than their colleagues in the sun; the competition for light and nutrients from trees or large shrubs can be strong, and the choice of suitable plants that are not the “tried and proven” Agapanthus, Indian Hawthorn or Clivia is limited.

dry shade plantsPink Gaura Gaura lindheimeri ‘Siskyou Pink’

Adventurous gardeners will have discovered that a surprising number of drought tolerant plants that we might only expect to see in the full sun can tolerate and even welcome a good amount of shade, adapting to the lower light, (although they might respond with reduced flowering and sparser growth), but who can do all that experimenting to find out which ones work and which ones just won’t? It’s therefore great to know that a few growers of tough and beautiful plants for our climate, soils, and limited water supply have done this work for us and that they make their findings freely available. Here are the ones whose plants I use most often in my designs, and whose search tools make the selection of shade-tolerant plants easier!

One of the first to come to mind is San Marcos Growers in Carpenteria, CA. Since 1979 they have been growing “plants appropriate to California’s Mediterranean climate, including many California native plants, as well as vines, trees, shrubs, ferns, perennials, succulents, ornamental grasses and grass-like plants from other areas around the world.”

Their website offers a full plant inventory with photos and descriptions; it includes an “Advanced Search” tool that helps you zero in on their plants that tolerate shade: Check, say, ‘shrub’, and ‘tolerates drought’, and ‘shade’, then click on ‘submit’, et voilà! You’ll get a list of 348 shrubs tolerant of various degrees of shade, with their full descriptions.

This is an impressive number of dry shade tolerant shrubs! Here are a few that I found exciting because of their either unusual foliage or appealing form:

Dry shade plant Acacia cognata Cousin Itt to 3 ft by 4-6 ft sun shadeLittle River Wattle Acacia cognate ‘Cousin Itt’

2-3 ft tall and 4-6 ft wide, its amazing foliage in low undulating mounds has an unusual, grass-like appearance, and I appreciate its appealing texture contrast to plants with fleshier foliage such as Honeybush, Aloes or large-leafed Bromeliads, or the rounder, hardy foliage of Coffeeberry or Creeping Barberry. As the grower says, it’s a “great plant for informal mounding along a dry stream bed, rock garden, tumbling down a slope or as a large potted specimen.”

Here are a few more shade-tolerant, water-wise shrubs and perennials:

Dry shade plant Ceanothus_griseus_horizontalis_Yankee_Point

Yankee Point Ceanothus Ceanothus griseus horizontalis ‘Yankee Point’

A “fast-growing, durable groundcover.. 2 to 3 feet tall and spreads 8 to 12 or more feet … glossy, dark green leaves and bright blue flower clusters in winter through early spring. .. will grow inland with no watering once established when sited in partial shade. Especially effective as a large-scale groundcover where salt-laden ocean spray is a factor. Hardy to about 15° F… Judicious pruning is recommended to maintain a dense form and promote vigor. “

Yankee Point can also be used as a formal hedge and tolerates shearing with a hedge trimmer well. (It doesn’t like hacking though, a couple of hard prunings can kill it. Keep the garden hacks away from it.)

Dry shade plants Myrsine africana African Boxwood rev (2)African Boxwood Myrsine africana

Here’s the “backbone” shrub that I described above, and what a versatile shrub it is! Evergreen, adapted to sun and shade, with an upright, slightly arching form, not too tall (5-7 ft), dense small-leaved foliage. It is a welcome backdrop to colorful and more ephemeral perennials planted in the foreground. It could be hedged if that fits your design.

Dry shade plant garryaelliptica_evie

Evie’s Silk Tassel Garrya elliptica ‘Evie’s’

Here’s a large evergreen shrub or small tree, 8 to 10 feet round (could get larger in perfect conditions.) It is useful as background or specimen drawing the eye. Catkins of creamy white flowers with a maroon tinge appear each winter. Full sun or part shade, quite drought tolerant although it can handle summer water. Salt and wind tolerant. Use it as an excellent screen, informal hedge, or espaliered. It’s a Bay Area native.

dry shade plant Geranium_incanum self seeds sheer every 2-3 yearsCarpet Geranium Geranium incanum

This is a tender South African perennial that forms bushy 10-inch tall mats of delicate wiry leaves and pale mauve flowers that appear from spring to fall. Trim plants after bloom flush to prevent seeding. Cut to the ground every other year to tidy up the clumps. A very tough plant in the coastal garden, tolerating drought and neglect. It makes a good groundcover in full sun. It is hardy to about 20 degrees F. A most beautiful weed!

Although only a wholesale nursery, San Marcos Growers deliver to many local nurseries, and you can order here your favorites. (See their Retail Nursery Locator as well as their Online Nursery Page)

dry shade plants Gaura lindheimeri Siskyou Pink dry shade plants

Pink Gaura Gaura lindheimeri ‘Siskyou Pink’

What’s not to like about this airy and delicate native from Mexico/Texas? In the spring it sends up arching sprays of small orchid-like blooms and continues to flower throughout the summer. It loves the sun but is also ideal for planting beneath desert trees. Just remember to give it enough room so you can enjoy it fully (3-4 ft spread).

Mountain States Wholesale Nursery, in their work of over 43 years, they have grown desert-adapted plants that “include hues and forms which far surpass our earlier hopes of adding texture, refinement, brilliance – pizzazz, if you will – to already proven durability…. To assist you in your selection process, Mountain States Wholesale Nursery offers over 450 taxa of desert-adapted trees, shrubs, ornamental grasses, accents, flowering perennials, groundcovers, and vines. We specialize in providing landscape plants that combine beauty and water economy.”

Dry shade plants Muhlenbergia rigens Deer Grass

Deer Grass Muhlenbergia rigens

I love ornamental grasses. Nothing else softens boulders, sturdy cacti, and fleshy succulents more naturally and evokes water having just vanished in a seasonal creek… As MSWN describe it at their website: “ Dependable and adaptable, Deer Grass is the backbone of many desert gardens… Native to the Southwest at elevations up to 7000 feet, Deer Grass thrives in varied conditions. It flourishes in full sun, difficult reflected heat exposures and tolerates quite a bit of shade. Deer Grass is extremely drought tolerant, although the foliage browns out if adequate water is not available in the summer. It also handles high rainfall, virtually any soils, and is hardy to -10ºF, USDA Zone 6.

Here’s what Wendy Proud, MSWN’s California Sales Representative wrote in her recent newsletter:

“Changing over from a water loving landscape to one which is less thirsty can be tricky in the shade. Dry shade probably has the least amount of plants available compared to other possible zones in the landscape.  Specific irrigation needs are key along with reasonable expectations about the speed of growth, blooming and eventual size of the plants being chosen.  Mountain States certainly offers plants that can handle some shade and actually many would say they like it…. if they could speak. 🙂  Attached is a list of those plants who like shade, which can also be found on our website.

There’s a tab labeled “Information Sheets” on the left side of our homepage that will direct you to more groupings of plants for specific issues or areas of interest such as, Salt Tolerant, Rabbit Resistant or Hummingbird Paradise.  Really helpful lists when you’re needing suggestions. “

And here the entire MSWN plant list for dry shade.

Although MSWN is a wholesale grower, their plants are either available through local retail nurseries or can be ordered here. And here’s the list of retail nurseries that MSWN delivers to: http://www.mswn.com/links/more

Mountain States Wholesale Nursery Dry Shade Plants

A retail & wholesale nursery that is a delight to visit (with a much shorter drive) is Waterwise Botanicals in Bonsall (WWB).  The “acres of beautiful nursery and growing grounds, including demonstration gardens, ponds, and a shade house full of creative treasures to inspire you“ will put any plant lover to the resistance test; the signage on their plants is excellent, as is their online plant catalog with photos and descriptions.

Here I found lots of dry shade tolerant plants, and I was especially surprised to find a shrub here that’s a smaller version of the very popular Tea Tree, growing in the shade!

Dry Shade Plant Leptospermums coparium 'Dwarf Pink' 2 x 2-3 ft sun or shade
‘Dwarf Pink’ Tea Tree Leptospermum scoparium ‘Dwarf Pink’

I like its dainty appearance, its convenient size (only 2 ft tall by 2-3 ft wide) and delicate foliage of tiny burgundy leaves, all attributes that invite to combine it many other colors. Imagine how appealing it would look placed next to a fleshy purple/burgundy succulent such as Aeonium ‘Silk’.

Don’t wait to visit this nursery! Regular events for the garden enthusiast also make this a great place to visit. Most entertaining are their ponds that the manager Tom Jesch built himself without filters, without pumps, beautifully balanced with aquatic plants, fish, and turtles. These ponds draw lots of wildlife and invite to take a seat alongside and observe the goings on.

The WWB blog contains entertaining and useful information. Here’s one that I especially appreciated: Summer maintenance of ornamental grasses!

I hope that putting a satisfying low-water-use plant composition together for the shady parts of your garden is a bit easier for you with the above-listed websites and tools. Even here, I’d suggest to strive for balance of size, texture, form and color. I myself start “from the top”: After making sure that there is an overhead shelter or roof of sorts (the eaves of a house, or the canopy of a tree or large shrub), I start with one or more woody shrubs as background structure (Myrsine f.e. – see above) that sort of glue and hold all together. To me, woody plants also add the sense of longevity and permanence. Then I consider the midground, if there is room, such as a mid-size shrub. Finally, I work on the foreground where I place a shorter perennial or succulent (by nature the more short-lived plant – for ex. Gaura – see above). Lastly, color is often something I find least important in these compositions, as it always seems to fall into place, and insisting on the perfect color simply reduces the number of available plants to nothing.

It feels good to recommend these growers; their dedication to offering a wide range of water-wise plants that are well suited to our soils and environment, be they in the sun or the shade, on the coast or in the desert, helps me contribute a small part to the preservation of our natural resources, without sacrificing the delight in our gardens.

Filed Under: Drought Resistant Landscape, Drought Resistant Plants, Uncategorized Tagged With: diy landscape design, drought resistant landscaping, drought tolerant designs specialist, drought tolerant landscape design, Low water plants

Drought tolerant plants: The Lobster Flower. Another loveable perennial for the sustainable landscape

June 25, 2011 By Christiane Holmquist

succulent perennials for the heat and low-water-use garden I have a passion for drought tolerant plants, and on one of my last visits to Quail Botanical Gardens in Encinitas (now San Diego Botanic Garden) I was attracted to a plant that looked it would fit the bill:  Growing in pure gravel, in the heat of summer, surrounded by other succulents and cacti it was producing cheerful blue-purple flowers.  This was one that I had to try out myself, and I have since  fallen in love with it.

Some call this South African succulent perennial Lobster Flower, but it also goes under the names of Green Aroma, Dogbane, or Spur Flower; its botanic name is Plectranthus neochilus.  In my hot inland garden  it’s now entering its second summer, and it has proven to be all that I would want from a plant that I select to embellish my or my clients’ water-wise garden.  It is hands-down attractive with fuzzy, slightly scalloped pale green aromatic foliage that stays under 6 inches tall in the full sun with little supplemental water but can get taller in the shade with enough water.

Bloom:  With enough sun it blooms almost year-round with about 3 to 6 inch tall spikelets  along which fragrant blue-purple tubular flowers are arranged that rise above the foliage; in the hot summer sun it is a relief to see that cool intense color. Dogbane Lobsterflower drought tollerant perennials that loves the heat

Spread: Mine have spread, starting from a cutting a year ago, to about a foot and a half wide, and they are supposed to continue slowly as the seasons go by. (Propagation from cuttings is extremely easy:  Just break off a stem of about 4-5 inches length, remove the lower leaves on 1-2 inches, snip off the flowers, then let dry in a shaded place for a couple of days.  Then plant in moist succulent mix, water in and let sit in partial shade for several weeks [don’t forget to keep moist].  I would not plant it out into the garden until the nights are cooler again;  otherwise, the young roots might get burned in the hot soil during the summer months).

Soil:  The Dogbane or Lobster Flower, like most xeriscape plants,  needs well draining soil (although I have the feeling that with careful watering it would also do well in heavier soil).

Use:  It can be planted at the foreground of a planting bed as colorful ground cover; in the shade it is attractive as well.  It drapes nicely over any edging and would make also an attractive plant for hanging baskets or containers.

Hardiness:  It is hardy to around 30 degrees; mine were hit a bit by frost, but the damaged branches were easily removed.

Deer/rabbit resistance:  Some sources say that it is deer resistant; rabbits have not touched mine so far.

Water/light needs: It tolerates considerable amount of drought and neglect, and although it prefers full sun or partial shade, it does well in the dry shade also where it makes an attractive ground cover.  I would find it an irresistible addition to any desert garden.

With all these attributes, this little perennial is an adorable, rugged and pretty ground cover for the water-conserving, sustainable landscape.  What more could you want from a garden friend?

Filed Under: Drought Resistant Landscape, Landscape Design Tagged With: desert succulent, drought tolerant groundcover, drought tolerant landscape design, drought tolerant perennial, Plectranthus neochilus Lobsterflower, shade groundcover, Sustainable landscape design, Water Conserving plants, xeriscape plants

Olives in January – Another California Winter Story

January 10, 2011 By Christiane Holmquist

drought-tolerant-olive-tree-tipsHaving my daughter home at Christmas is always a delight as we enjoy as much time in the sun as we can, while her home town is buried by several feet of snow.   This last holiday, as we were enjoying some gardening chores together my daughter commented on the heavy olive crop that was still on the tree.  I guess it was the appetite for another chicken baked with black olives, rosemary and lemon peel (one of our favorite recipes) that encouraged us to get serious about harvesting our olives before rodents, birds or insects would get them.

drought-tolerant-olive-tree-tipsPlacing the ladder under the canopy to get to the branches for hand-picking was difficult because of the many ornamentals planted in the dappled shade of the tree.  (This drought tolerant, attractive tree with silvery-green foliage is a wonderful addition to the drought tolerant, Mediterranean garden, and many un-thirsty plants enjoy the dappled shade that it provides.)

Most of the other olives had to be gotten down without help of the ladder, so we tried raking or knocking them off with a long pole and catching them in a tarp that my daughter and I held up. All needed to be done carefully to prevent injuries to the branches because this could have invited “Olive Knot”, a bacterial infestation resulting in galls developing at the branch that will cause die back.  (To protect from Olive Knot requires a couple of copper sprays each year, one in the fall following harvest and one in the early spring.)

We filled a few buckets, picking out the mushy or half eaten ones of which there were a few.  This fruit has been enjoyed for thousands of years in the Mediterranean area (where it is still grown), so there is a multitude of curing recipes out there.  We prefer the salty dry ones like the black, pungent French Nyons olives, so after washing them we are curing them now with salt.  The curing is needed to remove the bitter glucosides (“Oleuropein”)  that account for the horrible taste (which is a pity – they look so appetizing already uncured!)  Other methods are water curing, brine curing and lye treatments  (See “Safe Methods for Home Picking” , a publication by the University of California, Div. of Agriculture and Natural Resources, at http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/8267.pdf )

To try dry-salt-cure olives, use a pillow-case, for which you have made a drawstring top. Mix the olives with their own weight in non iodized table salt, pickling salt, or rock salt.  Pour them into the pillowcase and cover with more salt. Hang the pillow case in a place where the juice that will drop from it will not stain -  perhaps in a tree?  Stir them once a week for 4 weeks or until they have lost their bitterness.  When they are no longer terribly bitter, rinse in water and allow to dry overnight.  Then pack them in oil until you are ready to consume them.  (From “Lost Arts, A Cook’s guide to making vinegar, curing olives, crafting fresh goat cheese and simple mustards” by Lynn Alley, Ten Speed Press).

It was particularly interesting to learn from the Olive Grower’s Council of California in Visalia that some small olive oil presses may actually still cold press. However, most modern olive oil equipment warms (not heats) the paste to allow better release of the oil from the olive flesh.

Here some more background info that Mr. Adin Hester of the Olive Grower’s Council shared with me:  Table olives are an important economic crop in California. Major producing counties include Tulare, Fresno, Madera, Glenn, Tehama and Butte. LA County/San Fernando Valley at one time was a major producer of olives for oil and table use. (About the same historical time,  Butte County was also a major table and oil producer.)
Now the San Joaquin and Sacramento Valley are the major producers.

The 2010 crop produced a record setting 164,984 tons. About 5% was left on the trees because of small size and freeze damage in late November. This year’s harvest was one month later than normal. The industry generally begins table olive harvest in mid-September and finishes by November first.

Olive oil harvest begins in late October to early November and generally finishes by the end of December.  The later harvest, the greater the risk of freeze damaged olives. Frozen olives produce an unacceptable oil.

Today two major varieties of table olives are grown in California:  Manzanillo (80%), and Sevillano (the big green olive that gets fermented and stuffed with almonds) (20%).  There are still minimal acres of Mission, Barouni and Ascolano table olives grown in California. Even a few acres of  Kalamata olives are found in the state.

Olive tree culture:

Cold hardy to 15 degree F / -9 degrees C, it thrives in areas with hot, dry summers but also perform adequately in coastal areas.

This very ornamental willow-like tree with its soft silvery-green foliage grows slowly, typically to 25-30 ft high and as wide.  Young ones put on height fairly fast.  It is a more of shrubby tree so training begins early in life, where for a single trunk side branches are shortened and later pruned away below the point where you want branching to begin. The old-timers suggest letting the seedling grow freely for the first 3 – 4 years, then prune for shape.  The tree can be also trained into a multi-trunked form; for this, stake lower branches or basal suckers to continue growth at desired angles. It likes well drained soil but also grows in deep, rich soil, or stony soil with little fertilizer.

Pruning is important to maintain a champagne-flute shape of the foliage – if you are interested in a healthy tree and a good crop.  The tree is self pollinated, and opening the canopy will enhance air flow and good fruit setting.  Pruning should be done after harvest and when the danger of frost is over, which suggests early spring as the best time.  The new wood the tree produces during the g rowing season is where the buds will form to produce the following year’s crop.

The Olive tree should not be topped. An exception to this rule is the use of the olive as a hedge. It will form a dense, attractive hedge if topped and trimmed.

Water: It is drought tolerant; however, to produce a crop they need moisture consistently. Spain has over 5.5 million acres, most of which are dry-land farmed.  This results in not much production per tree or per acre, but the acreage multiplier still gives them the recognition of being the largest olive producing country in the world.

Sources:

A lot of interesting information, history and great recipes can be found on the website of the California Olive Oil Council http://www.cooc.com/culture_heritage.html

Olive curing recipes:  http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/8267.pdf

also “Calendar of Backyard Gardening Operations for Olives” at  http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/Olive/

Information about Olives: Safe Methods for Home Pickling

http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/Olive/

(Table) Olive Growers Council of California at  http://www.olivecouncil.com/index.html

Filed Under: Gardening tips, Trees Tagged With: contemporary landscape design, drought tolerant designs specialist, drought tolerant gardening, drought tolerant landscape design, drought tolerant trees, growing fruit trees, growing olives in southern California, harvest homegrown olives, holiday gardening, home-grown olives, irrigation restrictions, local garden expert, local landscape design expert, olive recipe, Olive tree culture, olive trees as screening plant, olive trees in the sustainable garden, olives in the home orchard, ornamental trees for the drought tolerant landscape, Sustainable landscape design, table olives from the home orchard, Water Conservation Garden, water-wise gardening

The “work horses” in my drought resistant landscaping

September 18, 2009 By Christiane Holmquist

Beloved Ghost Plant Graptopetalum paraguayense: Must-have among the xeriscape plants

My house sits on a little ridge overlooking the town of Ramona, in the “Valley of the Sun”, east of San Diego, which the Sunset Garden Book places into zone 20.  Temps here don’t get very low in winter; night temperatures might dip to the low 20s.  Thanks to my geographic situation I was spared the extreme cold that other areas saw in the February 2007 “big freeze”, although some plants looked like a torch had been held to them.  But the fact that in many places in my garden the cold air can drain away to lower valleys has saved many of my plants.

My soil is not the easiest to work with, although it is light:  Decomposed granite (often called DG) in most areas,  sandy loam in the remaining ones.  It drains well (too well to my liking), and the DG doesn’t hold many nutrients.  I have experimented with many desert plant species and found that many of those that in other areas of San Diego County are considered drought tolerant, need more water in my garden than I want to give them.  Now, with several years of trial and error, I am putting a list of my “work horses” together that I like to use also in my xeriscape designs, and I’ll be sharing with you this list as my next posts go up.

Ghost Plant

Ghost Plant

Here my first:

One of my favorite plants is the Ghost Plant Graptopetalum paraguayense .  I don’t know which aspect is more endearing:  Good looks, low water needs, occasional pinching-back if spread too far, and ready to root from leaves, stems or divisions…

A native from Mexico, it is a clumping succulent that reaches to 7 inches in height.  Its branches carry fleshy pointed leaves and terminate in blueish-grey rosettes tinged with pink, and it will spread to at least 1 ft wide or more.  It combines elegantly with any color, and I plant mine next  to either the blue of Salvia chamaedryoides Gentian Sage which also provides a nice contrasting texture, the lovely perennial grass Muhlenbergia rigens Deer Grass, the soft yellow of Calylophus hartwegii Trailing Buttercups, or the red of Salvia grahamii Dwarf Crayon Sage.   It’s extremely low in water use and maintenance and grows well in part shade or full sun.  In fact, planted under my native oaks I water it perhaps 2x or 3x during the summer, just to let the leaves plump up again when the long dry season has let them shrivel up a bit.

This very drought resistant plant is suitable as a ground cover in areas where there is no foot traffic or as filler for hanging baskets and rock gardens.  Its rosettes will be more gray-blue when grown in shade and show a pinkish-yellowish tinge when grown in full sun.  Sprays of white or yellow flowers appear on this plant which needs warm dry conditions but will tolerate temps to about 25F.   Leaves will break off easily so handle with care, and the nice bonus is that new plants grow readily from these leaves or from cuttings.

For questions, please contact me at (760)  586-6065

Filed Under: Drought Resistant Landscape, Landscape Design, Low Maintenance Plants, Low Water Landscape, Xeriscape designs Tagged With: drought tolerant landscape design, xeriscape plants

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Christiane, your design is beautiful. Viewers love the design and color. Thank you so much for all your support while the project was being developed. It would have been more stressful for me had you not held my hand regularly.

Rachel Michel

CHRISTIANE HOLMQUIST LANDSCAPE DESIGN


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