Water Conserving plants Archives - Christiane Holmquist Landscape Design

Drought tolerant plants: The Lobster Flower. Another loveable perennial for the sustainable landscape

June 25, 2011 By Christiane Holmquist Leave a Comment

I have a passion for drought tolerant plants, and on one of my last visits to Quail Botanical Gardens in Encinitas (now San Diego Botanic Garden) I was attracted to a plant that looked it would fit the bill: Growing in pure gravel, in the heat of summer, surrounded by other succulents and cacti it was producing cheerful blue-purple flowers. This was one that I had to try out myself, and I have since fallen in love with it.

Some call this South African succulent perennial Lobster Flower, but it also goes under the names of Green Aroma, Dogbane, or Spur Flower; its botanic name is Plectranthus neochilus. In my hot inland garden it’s now entering its second summer, and it has proven to be all that I would want from a plant that I select to embellish my or my clients’ water-wise garden. It is hands-down attractive with fuzzy, slightly scalloped pale green aromatic foliage that stays under 6 inches tall in the full sun with little supplemental water but can get taller in the shade with enough water.

Bloom: With enough sun it blooms almost year-round with about 3 to 6 inch tall spikelets along which fragrant blue-purple tubular flowers are arranged that rise above the foliage; in the hot summer sun it is a relief to see that cool intense color.

Spread: Mine have spread, starting from a cutting a year ago, to about a foot and a half wide, and they are supposed to continue slowly as the seasons go by. (Propagation from cuttings is extremely easy: Just break off a stem of about 4-5 inches length, remove the lower leaves on 1-2 inches, snip off the flowers, then let dry in a shaded place for a couple of days. Then plant in moist succulent mix, water in and let sit in partial shade for several weeks [don’t forget to keep moist]. I would not plant it out into the garden until the nights are cooler again; otherwise, the young roots might get burned in the hot soil during the summer months).

Soil: The Dogbane or Lobster Flower, like most xeriscape plants, needs well draining soil (although I have the feeling that with careful watering it would also do well in heavier soil).

Use: It can be planted at the foreground of a planting bed as colorful ground cover; in the shade it is attractive as well. It drapes nicely over any edging and would make also an attractive plant for hanging baskets or containers.

Hardiness: It is hardy to around 30 degrees; mine were hit a bit by frost, but the damaged branches were easily removed.

Deer/rabbit resistance: Some sources say that it is deer resistant; rabbits have not touched mine so far.

Water/light needs: It tolerates considerable amount of drought and neglect, and although it prefers full sun or partial shade, it does well in the dry shade also where it makes an attractive ground cover. I would find it an irresistible addition to any desert garden.

With all these attributes, this little perennial is an adorable, rugged and pretty ground cover for the water-conserving, sustainable landscape. What more could you want from a garden friend?

The lawn needs to go – but what then? Water Conservation Issues and Garden Re-do addressed at “The Garden”

March 24, 2011 By Christiane Holmquist 1 Comment

Prompted by the rising water cost and irrigation restrictions, San Diego homeowners consult the many resources available the Water Conservation Garden in El Cajon (at www.thegarden.org ). Among these resources are landscape design and horticulture experts offering consultations on subjects like “California Friendly Plants”, watering, arboriculture (the science concerned with trees), construction issues and landscape design. I enjoy being one of those professionals, and I thought you might be curious to learn how such a consultation might work for the people that come there.

In my consultations I generally encounter the same objective: Feeling the need to reduce their water bill or wanting a landscape that is more practical and ecological, these homeowners are ready to retire their mostly lawn-centered landscape. They come to the Water Conservation Garden with the common question, “What do I plant now?” Most of them believe that planting the right plants would make their gardens better and solve their problems; isn’t that what the beautiful low-water-use plants at “The Garden” are all about?

I understand this thinking but, as designer and horticulturist, I don’t think that suggesting different, albeit drought resistant, water-wise or “xeric” plants, would address the underlying problem (although those plants are generally more sustainable). I feel that planting random groups of plants into the former lawn area would not create attractive, comfortable spaces for outdoor living that “work”. Since that is my focus, I explain to the visitors that it would serve them best if they considered first how to make enjoyable outdoor living possible, in separate spaces designed for different uses.

What needs to happen in a yard so it can become an “outdoor living room”? How do you convert it into a play room, or entertainment space, a space to hang out, relax, dream, rejuvenate?

A garden space needs to be organized spatially and hierarchically, and I start my design process, in which I involve my visitors, by asking them if they can think of an activity that they would like to do but never had room for or that was relegated to a back corner of their garden. Perhaps there is some almost forgotten vision of a garden scene in the recesses of their memory that they never took seriously? Take the example of my last visitors at the Garden:

This family, husband, wife and son, arrived well prepared for the consultation, with photos and a sketch of their garden drawn to scale. They had decided to take out most of the lawn, a large expanse right by the patio; they would only keep a small part of it for their son for whom lawn mowing is a therapeutic activity. Opposite the patio, far across the lawn, was a planter bed, but since it was so far away and confined also by a low wall, the flowers in it were not recognizable from the patio. To my surprise, the lady told me that it held roses! Her husband mentioned, almost in passing, that he would like to grow succulents. Some trees were there, but they had been planted around the louter perimeter of the lawn so that they couldn’t throw any shade where it mattered most, which was on their hot south-west facing patio.

“Hardscaping” elements such as patios, walk ways, fencing, arbors, boulders – convey permanence and add structure. Most of them don’t have to be maintained, except for some new coat of paint or occasional sweeping, depending on the material used. And they don’t demand watering, fertilization, pruning… So I suggest to incorporate them as much as possible into a design and let them “furnish” the garden, organize the space into areas of different use, provide separation as well as access, focal points, delineation and definition.

In the case of the before mentioned visitors, we found that a swing for adults, placed under a shade tree, would be lovely to have; I suggested to place it at the far end of the garden from where the family could see house and patio from a new perspective, and I drew its outlines on transparent paper taped over their sketch. And why not pull rose bed and succulents closer to the patio from where they could be seen? Of course not into one flower bed, but in different areas that are perhaps even mounded up, separated by a walk way: Gently curved mounds give movement to an otherwise flat plan, and the plants on them can be seen better, like on a painted canvas. And if your soil drains poorly, creating those mounds helps improve the drainage because you can mix the mounded soil to provide the drainage your plants need, such as many Mediterranean plants, California Natives and succulents, and even roses.

roses framing view

As for the lawn, we drew a much reduced kidney-shaped area that started at one end of the patio, wrapped around behind the rose bed and the succulent mound, and ended at the other end of the patio. This way it was still visible and easy to get to from the patio without dominating the foreground. And to make all the different areas accessible, we discussed stepping stones and DG as possible material for the walkways, even coarse landscape mulch was considered.

Lastly we reviewed the possible locations of trees, and I pointed to my most favorite reference books on this subject: Ornamental Trees for a Mediterranean Climate, the trees of San Diego, by Steve Brigham with book design and photographs by Don Walker, and the Sunset Western Garden Book. Here gardeners can research all their favorite choices before making the final selection; they can actually visit the trees shown in the tree book at their location!

Our time was up, and although we had not talked much about plants in detail, the family was happy (I suggested to look to the Water Conservation Garden’s displays for ideas). Both husband and wife had information and tools in their hands that will make “playing” with their spaces, on paper first, a fun and exciting activity; selecting goals that are realistic and achievable with their budget and energy will now be a manageable task. And finally, armed with the proper reference books and resources that the Water Conservation Garden and other public gardens in San Diego County offer, they will be on their way to a garden that they can enjoy, and live in.

FIRE-UP YOUR PASSION – Red plant accents that warm up your landscape

April 14, 2010 By Christiane Holmquist 2 Comments

Mass-plantings of Crown-of-Thorns Euphorbia milii

I have a special predilection for the color Red: Not only does it become me as a blonde, it also fires up my mood, makes me cheerful and revs up my energy. I am drawn to Red like a hummingbird, and if Red on me invigorates me, I believe seeing red “lights” in the garden would do the same. Even in a garden space where the main hues are cooler and more restraint, and where there are lots of calmer tones in rocks, timber, pathways and other hardscape elements, a few red splashes warm up the planting scheme and make the tones more saturated. Red works particularly well in South-West style gardens, where it makes a lively contrast to lighter colors such as DG, sand or gravel whose tones look washed out in the strong sunlight; used as color on a background wall it adds drama to succulents and cacti.

Bloodred Trumpet Vine Distictis buccinatoria

Red can provide a bright focal point, such as a Bloodred Trumpet Vine Distictis buccinatoria drooping from a wall or from an arbor, or a Crown-of-Thorns Euphorbia milii, mixed with Firecracker Broom Russelia equisitiformis, spilling from an urn. Used as accent plant in the background, such as in groupings of red-flowering Aloe behind shorter, softer perennials or clumping succulents, the Aloe’s red flower spikes will show like exclamation points, and their pointy leaves will create a dynamic contrast in structure and texture.

Firecracker Broom, Crown-of-Thorns and Kalanchoe manganii in container

When planted in the foreground as border accent, or hugging the curves of a path, Red creates a bright ribbon through the garden that your eye can follow; as foreground plant repeated throughout the garden it ties different areas together and adds cohesion.

If used as red winter bloomer, f.e. Cyclamen Cyclamen persicum, it will bring much needed warmth into your planter beds, and in dark and shady places the red flowers will shine like lights.

Delightful summer-blooming Cantua 'Hot Pants'

I am having fun doing this and have compiled lists of plants with red flowers that I like to use. Of course each landscape prompts a different choice because of its design style, its existing sun/shade conditions, its soil type, the character of the architecture and the hardscape materials chosen. The following compilation of “Reds” contains plants with various growing conditions, but all are long-lived, low in maintenance needs and more or less water-wise and tolerant of xeric conditions. (However, it’s important to note that a plant’s location will determine how tolerant of dry conditions it is: For example, a Crangrape Cuphea C. llavea “Crangrape” is more drought tolerant in coastal locations and soils than in hotter inland valleys.) Nor is the list all-inclusive, and if you have more suggestions, I will be happy to add them.

THE SHORT & MEDIUM STUFF FOR SUN & PARTIAL SHADE

Aloes (many): Aloe ‘rookappie’, Aloe saponaria, Aloe arborescens, Aloe nobilis
Autumn Sage & relative Dwarf Crayon Sage Salvia greggii, S. grahamii
Baja Fairy Duster Calliandra californica & Fairy Duster Calliandra erophylla
Blanket Flower Gaillardia grandiflora
Bottlebrush Callistemon citrinus and C. viminalis
Butterfly Weed Asclepias tuberosa
Cantua ‘Hot Pants’ Cantua buxifolia
Chuparosa Justicia californica
Coral Bells Heuchera sanguinea, Heuchera micrantha
Croscosmia
Crown-of-Thorns Euphorbia millii
Emu Bush ‘Valentine’ Eremophila species ‘Valentine’
Royal Beard Tongue Penstemon spectabilis
Firecracker Penstemon Penstemon eatonii

Grevilleas ‘Poorinda Constance” , Grevillea lanigera
Kalanchoe Kalanchoe blossfeldiana & Kalanchoe manganii
Kangaroo Paw “Bush Blaze” & “Sunset”, Anigozanthus flavidus
Many Daylilies: Red Hot Poker, Cardinal Spokes Hemerocallis hybrids
Nodding Pincushion Leucospermum cordifolium
Propeller Plant Crassula falcata
Red Hot Poker Plant Kniphophia uvaria
Sticks on Fire Euphorbia tirucalli
Watsonia Watsonia intermedia
Zonal Geranium Pelargonium hortorum

(See also my previous article “Exceptional Winter Blooming Plants for Southern California”)

RED-FLOWERING TREES
Here only an incomplete list:
Australian Flame Tree Brachychiton acerifolius
Coral Trees Erythrina x bidwillii, E. caffra, E. coralloides etc.
Crape Myrtle “Watermelon Red” and “Tonto” Lagerstroemia indica & Lagerstroemia x hybrids
Firewheel Tree Stenocarpus sinuatus
Mimosa, Silk Tree Albizia julibrissin

From lawn-scape to entertainment garden: How much fun can you have in your garden?

March 15, 2010 By Christiane Holmquist Leave a Comment

This project was one of the most satisfying transformations that I have worked on, and in this neighborhood it presents a dramatic deviation from the traditional Rancho Bernardo landscape which consists of large lawns and foundation plantings. To be frank those lawns and usually clipped foundation shrubs don’t create much interest, and I hesitate calling these “gardens”; they rather invite me to yawn.

Fortunately, the homeowner shared this feeling and wanted all his lawn removed: He felt that he had neither an enticing space to indulge in his love for tropical plants, nor that the existing patio offered sufficient room to entertain his family and friends, and that a lawn would not serve him any longer. Although the outside of the home did not reveal the client’s taste, I noticed many modern art objects inside his home. A little bored with the ubiquitous curved and “free-form” lines for pathways, lawns and patios, I hoped he would be open to a more modern or contemporary approach to the desired re-design of his landscape, and I was excited when he said he was.

I was now free to examine whether an orthogonal or right-angled arrangement of spaces and elements would work, and it turned out that the combination of both would produce the best results: Since the existing patio was not only crammed into the smallest portion of his back yard but also too close for comfort to a more private and quieter sitting area that he wished to create by his bedroom, the dining and entertainment terrace needed to be moved out into the garden, into the previous lawn area had been. A patio of the desired dimensions would only fit if set at a 45 degree angle to the architectural lines of the house.

This invited to repeat the angular layout in the walkways that connect the main patio with a small breakfast area by the front entrance as well as with the quiet-zone by the bedroom: Colored smooth concrete pavers of varying size cross a garden that is populated with a variety of tropical and subtropical plants. Even the fenced utility enclosure jots out at a 45 degree angle from the house.

While the quiet-zone at the bedroom received a traditional shade cover with a slightly sloping roof, the homeowner splurged in a custom peaked-roof trellis over the dining patio– a fun variation from the traditional flat roof that is more economic to install.

In order to keep the water bill moderate and with an eye to sustainability, I combined many brightly colored sub-tropical moderate water-users: the magenta-flowering succulent Rock Purslane Calliandra surinamense, intensely blue Catmint “Blue Wonder” , orange-red Lantana, Blue Hibiscus Alyogyne huegelii, Golden Wonder Senna Cassia splendida ‘Golden’, Firecracker Broom Russelia equisitiformis and Cape Honeysuckle Tecoma capensis, with thirstier tropical plants such as Princess Flower Tibouchina, Pink Trumpet Tree Tabebuia impetiginosa, and flamboyant Canna Lily Canna. Most of these plants are easy to maintain (the Canna perhaps needs a little more attention to keep it clean looking) yet moderate in their water consumption. With separately timed (drip) irrigation stations a combination like this conserves water yet allows the garden the tropical feel that the client desired. And since he knows that his drip irrigation system is quite adaptable to add-ons, he is happily continuing to bring in exciting finds of his own selection.

He wants the view – but she wants the privacy: How to marry different garden needs for the couple homeowners

January 24, 2010 By Christiane Holmquist 3 Comments

In my first landscape design consultation with Rob and Lisa, I found a familiar scenario: Unable to agree on what the main focus in their garden design should be and concerned that a design would force them into sacrificing his or her desires, they hoped that I could find a solution that both of them could be happy with.

Their Mediterranean-style house was built on the edge of a slope; the long and narrow back garden was wide open to a magnificent 180 degree view of the valley and the hills beyond, unspoiled by housing developments. Their wish list for this part of their property was typical: A small patio, situated at one end of the house by the breakfast nook, to enjoy the morning sun; at the other end of the house, a spa pad surrounded by fragrant plants; and between these two areas, by their dining room, the main patio where they would entertain. On these things Rob and Lisa agreed; hoping to achieve them without sacrificing the complete view for the sake of creating more separate and private spaces, especially for the spa area, seemed unrealistic.

There was no doubt in my mind that Rob and Lisa’s back garden that presented itself like a long hallway between house and slope, needed to be divided into separate areas. Also, without any sort of screening the spa would have been visible from the “morning” patio at the other end of the house, and nobody taking a bath there would have felt privacy in such an exposed place.

My first step was to seek a way in which the break-up into separate spaces could be achieved while preserving as much as possible of the beautiful view. I devised imaginary transparent “walls” to do this but left large “windows” in them: Raised planters flanking the main patio would represent the lower part of the walls, plants in the planters would be the upper part, and looking over and through the plants would be like looking through windows so that the 180 degree view was not diminished. I placed arbors in the planters whose beams would be reaching across a passage through the planters, thus creating an overhead ceiling and framing the “doors” in the walls. Vines on the arbors would soon be adding a leafy décor. An added benefit of the low planters was their height: At 18 inch height their wall caps would provide added seating at the entertainment area

While the planters were now framing the main patio, they also divided the long back garden into three distinct spaces, and by separating the main patio from the spa area, a good portion of the demands on this space were now met. It still needed to be less exposed, and this was achieved by creating an 18 inch deep pit into which the spa was lowered. Both Lisa and Rob were now ready for a real compromise: We erected a wooden trellis behind the spa that soon would be supporting a fragrant Jasmine; a seedless “Little Ollie” Olive that can be easily pruned “lacey” and transparent would add protection from the wind as well as an additional screen. Both elements would intensify the sense of privacy for the spa user – and the view into the valley was still almost 180 degrees.

We planted low-growing drought tolerant (“xeric”) Mediterranean-type plants such as Lavender Cotton, White Rockrose, Blue Fescue, Iris, Blue Queen’s Wreath, Sages, Wormwood, Lavender, and roses…. and signature trees such as Olives, Cypress, London Plane Tree, Pomegranate, Citrus and other fruit trees. For fragrance by the spa we used Hyssop, Catmint, Germander, Thyme, and Angelwing Jasmine on the trellis. The California Natives on the rocky slopes would provide a colorful transition from the local chaparral to the garden-space: Mountain Lilac, Flannel Bush, Toyon, Redbud, Coyote Mint, Evening Primrose etc. would also draw birds and other wildlife closer to the house.

With mulch and DG for the garden paths, and local field stone used for the raised planters, the sustainable hardscape materials felt like they really belonged in this landscape. When the plants were beginning to grow in, softening the outlines of the structures and draping around statues, urns and fountain, the feeling of this garden was convincingly Mediterranean, and yet so Californian.

Exceptional Winter Bloomers For Drought Resistant Landscaping in Southern California

December 2, 2009 By Christiane Holmquist 1 Comment

Our first winter rains have blown through and and brought a welcome refreshment after the long and hot months. As our summer bloomers are going into their winter rest, much of our traditional drought resistant landscaping is beginning to look a bit drab (unless you have one of those ever-bloomers such as Bougainvillea). The approaching holidays are creating an atmosphere of hope and expectation, and when we add to this the notion that this is an ideal time for planting in the low water landscape, we find ourselves searching the garden centers for the colorful plants that can cheer up our winter gardens. However, you’ll notice that most nurseries reserve the bulk of their space for the big sellers: Poinsettias, green wreaths, Camellias and Azaleas of course, and many winter blooming annuals. If you are more interested in exceptional xeriscape plants that don’t have to be replaced at every change of the season, that will flower through the winter months and that will add color to your garden for many years to come, read on. From the many that come to mind I have chosen a few that are un-demanding in maintenance, low in watering needs, and just outstanding plants. This list is just a first selection, and I’ll be happy to share many more with you if you contact me.

THE SHORT STUFF: xeriscape plants at around a foot height

Santa Barbara Daisy Erigeron karvinskianus, is a free-blooming perennial with dainty, white/pink daisy-like flowers to ¼ inch wide and narrow leaves to 1 inch long, that gracefully trails and slowly spreads to about 3 ft with a height of 10 to 20 inches. It’s not really a winter bloomer as it has already been in bloom all summer long, but the flowers never stop coming. It likes full sun but can tolerate partial shade and is very drought tolerant. It can be a bit invasive but is not overwhelming. Use it for edgings, as groundcover, in containers and in rock gardens, in naturalized beds, hanging baskets or in dry laid walls, especially to offset plants with a coarser texture, such as fleshy Ghost Plant (see it described in “‘The “work horses” in my drought resistant landscaping”).

Sundrops and Trailing Buttercups Calylophus drummondii & Calylophus hartwegii

These closely related perennials grow to about 1 ft high by 2 ft wide. Although not true winter bloomers, they will, if planted in a sheltered spot, continue their bloom from summer to winter, although a little more sparsely. I love them because they are long flowering must-haves for the xeriscape, undemanding in maintenance. Sheer them down to a few inches in mid spring to give them a rest and tidy them up for the next flowering season. Their brightly yellow flowers will cheer up many drab spots in your garden, in full sun or light shade, and their fine textured foliage is an excellent companion to coarser textured succulents.

WINTER-BLOOMING DESERT PLANT SPECIES

Baja Fairy Duster Calliandra californica: This native to Baja California and Sonora, Mexico, is an evergreen shrub with an open growth that can reach 5 ft to 5-6 f wide. This species is sometimes compared to Fairy Duster Calliandra eriopylla, which is smaller (to 3 ft x 3-4 ft wide), summer deciduous to evergreen, with less luxuriant foliage. There is also a hybrid available called ‘Maricopa Red’. These sturdy yet fine-textured shrubs like hot dry situations, although the Fairy Duster C. eriophylla can also tolerate the warmer coastal environments. They all like the full sun and need good drainage. With little to moderate water the Baja Fairy Duster C. californica and its cousin ‘Maricopa Red’ bloom year round; Fairy Duster C. eriophylla starts in late winter and goes into early summer, but leaves and bloom last longer if some summer water is given (the Fairy Duster is summer-deciduous). All produce the characteristic exotic duster-like flowers that are puff balls of deep red or light to deep pink stamens (C. Eriophylla) ½ to ¾ inch in size that are irresistible to hummingbirds.

Baja Fairy Dusters C. californica produce flattened seed pods 2-3 inches long and dark brown; those of Fairy Duster C. eriophylla are quite attractive: to about 2 inches long, brown with red margins and a fuzzy coating that catches the sunlight. This one can be used for erosion control as it spreads by rhizomes.

These shrubs work well in the low water landscape as accent or massed as groundcovers (especially the smaller C. eriophylla). Try setting off their fine textured foliage next to more sturdy succulents or cacti to lend them a softening effect; The Fairy Duster C. eriophylla also makes a great specimen in a glazed container.

Feathery Cassia (also called “Old Man Senna”) Senna artemisioides (sometimes sold as Cassia artemisoides). This Native to Australia has silvery-grey, needle-like foliage and is 3 to 5 ft tall and wide with an airy open structure. It can take full sun or partial shade and likes well draining soil. Beginning in late fall, it covers itself with a profusion of yellow ¾ inch clusters of 5 to 8 flowers puff balls of flowers that can continue into early summer when the shrub takes a rest, to start again in late fall. Its reddish-brown flattened, 1½ inch long narrow seedpods hang on for a long period of time, but in the heat of summer this provides an attractive contrast to the silvery foliage. It is very drought tolerant but looks best with moderate to regular water.

Grevillea ‘Poorinda Constance’

Grevilleas are evergreen shrubs and trees most of which come to us from Australia. Of the many that we can grow in our County this one displays an open, graceful growth and can reach 8 ft tall by 12 ft wide. Its needle-like, deep green 1 inch long leaves are almost white beneath. The shrub produces clusters of orange-red flowers in winter and spring and intermittently at other times. It needs full sun or partial shade and little or no water. As a spectacular screening or specimen shrub it will mask unsightly views or provide privacy.

WINTER-BLOOMING SUCCULENTS

Aloe Aloe arborescens

The Aloes are primarily South African natives that range in size from 6 inch to tree-like, but all form rosettes of fleshy, pointed leaves. To me, this is the most striking and imposing Aloe as it forms a large, rounded shrub-colony that over the years can reach 10 ft high and wide. Branching stems carry big clumps of grey-green, spiny-edged leaves. Is is easy to grow in well-drained soil, can take full sun or shade and salt spray, needs little water but can take more. This makes them nice companions to perennials that have similar water- and drainage needs. Its foliage can be damaged at 27 F but will in most cases rebound. In winter, this plant produces spiky torch-like clusters of bright brick-red flowers. A variegated form is also available.

Cotyledon Cotyledon orbiculata

This south African native can quickly reach 2 ft tall, about 2 ft wide. Its fleshy paddle leaves may be green edged with red or whitish-gray, depending on variety; its sports drooping orange-red bell-shaped flowers from late fall into spring. This succulent is suitable for the drought resistant landscaping and needs excellent drainage. Tolerant of light frosts, it is easy to propagate from cuttings and makes a great container plant.

WINTER-BLOOMING, DROUGHT TOLERANT TREES

Pearl Acacia (also called Queensland Silver Wattle) Acacia podalyriifolia. Native to Australia, Mexico or the southwestern US, many attractive, winter-blooming and fragrant Acacias are available to us. The evergreen Pearl Acacia grows to 10-20 ft tall and 12-15’ wide with roundish, 1 1/2 inch long silvery gray satiny leaves. It is a shrubby plant that can be trained into a small tree. Brilliant bright yellow puffy and sweetly fragrant flowers are produced in late winter/early spring. It is tolerant of our soils and needs full sun little or no water. The Sunset Western Garden Book recommends to prune the Acacias that are grown as tree form to open up their interiors which will reduce dieback of shaded branches.

Sky Flower Duranta erecta (D. repens, D. plumieri)

This is a fast growing evergreen shrub that can be easily be trained into a small tree. It grows 10-25 ft tall and 6-10 ft wide. Especially as a multi-trunked plant it can make a beautiful specimen for the low water landscape. Its glossy green leaves are about 2 inch long on broadly arching branches that may or may not have spines. Pretty ½ inch sized violet-blue flowers in fragrant clusters are produced nearly all year and attract people, butterflies and hummingbirds. They are followed by pretty yellow berries (toxic if ingested). It grows easily in most soils in full sun or partial shade, needs only average watering and tolerates temperatures down to around 20 F.

There are also light-blue and dark-blue flowered selections of this shrub available, as well as a white one called ‘Alba’. ‘Sweet Memory’ is thornless, with flower petals edged in white. ‘Gold Mound’ is a small one, only 1 ½ ft wide and high, has brilliant gold leaves and flowers rarely, but it is excellent for adding color to container plantings.

SUPPLIERS & RESOURCES
Waterwise Botanicals a few miles north of Escondido grow exceptional xeriscape plants, including perennials, shrubs, succulents, cacti and roses. Their availability list with photos and plant descriptions is online.

Briggs Tree Company in Vista carries a wide variety of traditional landscape as well as drought resistant plants, and their list (most plants now with descriptions) is available online.

Green Meadow Growers in Bonsall also offer a great line of grasses and succulents as well as shrubs and perennials; they also make available plants from Mountain States Wholesale Nurseries who specialize in desert plant species.

Oasis Water Efficient Gardens in Escondido offer an exciting range of succulents, cacti and other low water landscape plants.

Great photos, ideas and tips for designing with succulents are presented by renowned author and photo journalist Debra Lee Baldwin, Her book ‘Designing with Succulents’ has been a wonderful resource in my design work, and I look forward to her next book, ‘Succulent Container Gardens’ that will appear shortly.

Christiane Holmquist

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